Permanent wave lotion



but may also be used 'vide a wave lotion which ural wave, said wavebeing retained despite re- Patented Oct. 12, 1954 UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE PERMANENT WAVE LOTION David Oliva, Homestead, Fla.

No Drawing. Application July 23, 1953,

Serial No. 369,960

11 Claims. 1

The present invention relates to a new :permanent wave lotion which isparticularly "successful in connection with the waving of human hair,for conditioning all fibre material, notably, animal hair, cotton,rayon, as well as natural tile fibres and twines.

The primary object of the invention is to provide a wave lotion in whichthe permanence of the wave will'be substantially enhanced, especiallyagainst the deleterious eifects of shampooing, and will be resistant toweather conditions.

Another object of the invention is to provide a permanent wave lotionwhich holds the electrostatic activity of the hair to a minimum thusmaking .it easier to comb and brush thehair without having it entangleand fly loosely about,

which action of the :lotion is maintained after repeated washing.

An additional object of the invention is to prowill impart a sheen tothe hair, which sheen is retained by the hair after repeated washing.

It is a further object of the invention to produce a wave which willclosely simulate a natpeated washing and brushingand being resistant toweather conditions.

Still-another object of the invention .is to provide a. lotion capableof achieving the foregoing objects, which lotion will leave the handsofan operator applying the same smooth and nice appearing, and whichwill not injure the hair or scalp to which it is applied.

As will be appreciated, the wave lotion of this invention possesses manyadvantages including the further attribute that hair treated with thelotion has increased resistance to heat to thereby provide increasedprotection against overheating when heat is employed to'speedthe Wavingopera- .tion.

In accordance with the presentinvention, an

alkaline permanent wave lotion is provided containing as its essentialwaving ingredients, a proteinaceous material together-with apolyalkyleneglycol having at least 400 and preferably at least 1000 recurring groupsin the molecule. It has been found that the inclusion of each of theaforementioned ingredients is essential to the formation of an excellentwave which is resistant to removal by washing and brushing.

Polyalkylene glycols have previously been disclosed for use in permanentwave lotions to provide a dressing effect upon the hair in place of oilswhich wer previously used for this purpose.

and synthetic fibres and tex- 2 e As is known, this dressing effect iseasily removed by shampooing and provides no lasting action.

Proteinaceous materials have also been proposed for use in permanentwave lotions. Such materials do not, without the concurrent presence ofa polyalkylene glycol in accordance'with the present invention, providea fully satisfactory wave, and the proteinaceous material which isdeposited upon the hair by the lotion is not resistant to brushing orwashing.

I have made the surprising discovery that by the use of a polyalkyleneglycol having at least 400 and preferably at least 1000 recurring groupsin the molecule together with a proteinaceous material in an aqueousalkaline medium capable of softening the hair to permit waving thereofand capable of disrupting the disulfide bonds of the cystine of thehair, that an excellent wave may be formed which accomplishes theobjects washing.

With regard to the aqueous alkaline medium employed it is preferred toemploy a mixture of two alkaline ingredients. The first or these isammonia either in the form of a watersolution thereof or in the form ofammonium carbonate. Mixtures of both may also be employed. It has beenfound that ammonia is particularly eflicaceous in softening the hair topermit its being shaped. Ammonia is, of course, a volatile material andescapes from the solution during thewaving operation, such escape beinghastened by heat. The second alkaline .material employed is sodium orpotassium carbonate. Such materials hydrolyze .in water to form thecorresponding hydroxides, and as will be-apparent, the presenceofammonia either in the form of the hydroxide or the carbonate, preventsthe completion-0f the hydrolysis reaction. As is well known, thealkalies such as sodium and potassium hydroxide attack the-cystine ofthe hair and disrupt the disulfide bonds therein.

The lotion of th present invention is in the nature of a buffersolution, the development of excess alkalinity being prevented by thepresence of the proteinaceous material which act as acids in a stronglyalkaline medium and in such medium react with the sodium or potassiumions present to form salts.

Polyethylene glycol is the preferred polyalkylene glycol for use in thepresent invention. A polyethylene glycol having 400 recurring groups(ethoxy groups) to the molecule is usable in accordance with theinvention. The wave produced by polyethylene glycol 4.00 is weak andmore acceptable waves are produced when polyethylene glycol of higheraverage molecular weights are employed. It is preferred to employpolyethylene glycols having at least 1000 recurring groups to themolecule and best results have been obtained using from 4000 to 6000recurring groups in the polyethylene glycol molecule.

It is not essential to the invention that the recurring group in thepolyalkylene glycol molecule be an ethoxy group a sin polyethyleneglycol. Approximately equivalent results are obtained using the samenumber of recurring groups when the group which recurs is a propoxy(polypropylene glycol) or a butoxy (polybutylene glycol) group.

The proteinaceous material in accordance with the invention ispreferably casein. It is stressed, however that a wide variety of otherproteinaceous materials act in the same manner as casein, although ofthe many tried, casein provided the most satisfactory results withrespect to the excellence of the wave.

Accordingly, the proteinaceous material employed may be any water oralkali soluble protein or aqueous alkali soluble protein, among the mostimportant of which are yeasts of any type, any kind of animal fleshprepared so as to be soluble, powdered stomach U. S. P., mucins, bloodalbumen, egg albumen, sericin from silk, gelatin, cocoanut juice, cheeseof any kind, powdered and liquid milk, botanein l3, and bacteria. Otherprotein compounds and derivatives may be used such as hydrolyzedproteins, chemically reduced proteins, proteins reduced to their aminoacids, enayme digested proteins, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, gum acacia,glutins, prolamines, etc.

Preferably. the proteins employed are soluble in water or dilute aqueousalkaline solution.

The proteinaceous materials of the invention are normally effective whenemployed in small amounts. For example, casein is preferably employed inamounts not greater than 1 to 3%. Normally, between 25% to 2 denotes thecomplete range of utility and it is normally preferred to employ between1 and 3%. As previously mentioned, casein has been found to be the mostdesirable of the proteinaceous materials for employment in the inventionand the best results using this material are obtained employing about1%. As the amount of proteinaceous material in the lotion is increasedwithin the operational range, there is a tendency for the lotion tobecome unduly thick and, hence, unmanageable. Such unduly thicksolutions can be readily thinned by the addition of 0.5% to 5% of urea.

With respect to the poly-alkylene glycol, this material may be employedin amounts of about 25% to 25%, between 3 and being preferred.

The sodium or potassium carbonate is employed in amounts of betweenabout 25% to 10%, it being preferred to employ between 1 and 2%.

With respect to the proportion of ammonia water, it has been foundsatisfactory to employ about 1 to 20% of a solution having aconcentration of 26 to 28% in conjunction with about 1 to 20% ofammonium carbonate. When using ammonia water alone, it is preferable touse about 25%. When employing ammonium carbonate alone, it is preferredto employ about 20%.

The lotion so formed is employed by impregnating the hair to be wavedwith the lotion. The ammonia is then allowed to volatilize and the hairis then curled as by winding upon rollers. The curled hair is thenallowed to remain in its curled position to permit the remainingingredients in the lotion to act upon the hair. When heat is notemployed to speed the action of the lotion, about 24 hours are requiredto permit the lotion to exert its action. When heat is employed, theingredients in the lotion will usually complete their action withinabout eight minutes. The curlers are then removed and the hair rinsedwith an acid rinse of a water solution of acetic acid or an acidcompound in water such as aluminum acetate. The hair is then washed toremove the acid rinse.

In addition to the ingredients above mentioned, there may be added tothe lotions of the invention, reducing agents such as sodium sulphite, amonoethanolamine sulphite, or oxidizing agents such as iron, peroxideswhere it is necessary to produce a tighter curl.

It is recognized that usually after hair has been waved with one of theconventional lotions, it is not possible to use other lotionssuccessfully. In the case of the present invention, however, the lotioncan be safely and effectively used without preliminary hair treatmentsor without waiting for the previously applied lotion to lose itsactivity.

While this invention is particularly directed to the treatment andimprovement of human hair, it is also useful for the processing ofanimal and vegetable fibers, notably, wool and animal hair, such ascamels hair, mohair, cotton, rayon, etc.

Sufficient water to make parts.

To form this lot-ion, disperse the casein in 25 parts of water, add theammonia water, the ammonium carbonate and the potassium or the sodiumcarbonate. 5 parts of polyethylene glycol is then dissolved in themixture, and sufficient water is added to make 100 parts.

Example 2 The lotion of Example 1 may be employed as two separatesolutions as follows:

Solution No. 1.-1 part of casein, 5 parts polyethylene glycol l,000) and1 part of sodium or potassium carbonate is dissolved in sufiicient waterto form 50 parts of solution. This solution is then applied to the hairas a hair treatment or hair conditioner. It may be dried on the hair orleft in the wet condition.

Solution No. 2.-This second solution contains the remaining ingredientsof the formula as follows:

Ammonia water (28%) 12.5 parts either Ammonium carbonate 9.375 parts, orboth Water sulficient to make 50 parts solution.

Solution No. 2 is applied to the hair already saturated with SolutionNo. l. The hair is then wrapped around a curling rod and the wavetherein produced in the same manner as previously illustrated withrespect to the lotion of Example 1.

Example 3 Example 1 was repeated with polyethylene glycol (400) in placeof polyethylene glycol (4,000). A curl of excellent sheen and softnesswas obtained and the hair so waved had no split ends. The curl obtained,however, was weak.

Example 4 Example 1 was repeated using polyethylene glycol (1,000) inplace of-polyethylene glycol (4,000). A soft springy curl of greatelasticity was obtained possessing excellent sheen and no split ends.

Example 5 Example 6 Example 1 was repeated using yeast in place ofcasein. The curl obtained using the lotion so modified possessed fairelasticity. Its softness was increased, but the hair possessed lessbody.

Example 7 Example 1 was repeated using cocoanut amino acids and a curlsimilar to the curl of Example 6 was obtained.

Example 8 Example 1 was repeated using botanein B in place of casein anda tight curl of reduced sheen was obtained.

The present application is a continuation-inpart of my applicationSerial No. 111,773, filed August 22, 1949, now abandoned.

I claim:

1. A permanent wave lotion comprising a proteinaceous material and apolyalkylene glycol having at least 400 recurring groups in the moleculein an aqueous alkaline medium capable of softening hair and disruptingthe disulfide bonds of the cystine thereof.

2. A permanent wave lotion as recited in claim 1 in which said aqueousalkaline medium comprises at least one volatile alkaline materialselected from the group consisting of ammonia and ammonium carbonate,together with at least one material selected from the group consistingof sodium and potassium carbonate.

3. A permanent wave lotion comprising between 0.25 and 20.0% by weightof a proteinaceous material and between 0.25 and 25.0% by weight of apolyalkylene glycol having at least 400 recurring groups in the moleculein an aqueous alkaline medium capable of softening hair and disruptingthe disulfide bonds of the cystine thereof.

4. A permanent wave lotion as recited in claim 3 in which said aqueousalkaline medium comprises at least one volatile alkaline materialselected from the group consisting of ammonia and ammonium carbonate,together with from 0.25 to 10% by weight of at least one materialselected from the group consisting of sodium and potassium carbonate.

5. A permanent wave lotion as recited in claim 4 in which about 1.0 to20.0% by weight of a 26 to 28% solution of ammonia water is employed inconjunction with from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight of ammonium carbonate.

6. A permanent wave lotion comprising between 0.25 and. 20.0% by weightof a proteinaceous material and between 0.25 and 25.0% by weight of apolyethylene glycol having at least 400 ethoxy groups in the molecule inan aqueous alkaline medium containing at least one volatile alkalinematerial selected from the group consisting of ammonia and amomniumcarbonate, together with at least one material selected from the groupconsisting of sodium and potassium carbonate.

7. A permanent wave lotion as recited in claim 6 in which saidproteinaceous material is casein.

8. A permanent wave lotion comprising between 1.0! and 3.0% by weight ofa proteinaceous material soluble in aqueous medium and between 3.0 and10.0% by weight of a polyethylene glycol having at least 1,000 ethoxygroups in the molecule in. an aqueous alkaline medium containing atleast one volatile alkaline material selected from the group consistingof ammonia and ammonium carbonate, together with from 1.0 to 2.0% of atleast one material selected from the group consisting of sodium andpotasium carbonate.

9. A permanent wave lotion comprising about 1.0% by weight of casein,between 3.0 and 10.0% by weight of a polyethylene glycol having between4000 and 6000 ethoxy groups in the molecule in an aqueous alkalinemedium containing from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight of a 26 to 28% solution ofammonia water together with from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight of ammoniumcarbonate and from 1.0 to 2.0% by weight of at least one materialselected from the group consisting of sodium and potassium carbonate.

10. The method of treating hair which comprises subjecting the same to alotion comprising a proteinaceous material and a. polyalkaline glycolcontaining at least 400 recurring groups in the molecule in an aqueousalkaline medium capable of softening hair and disrupting the disulfidebonds of the cystine thereof, heating the hair and thereafter rinsingthe hair with an acid rinse.

11. The method of treating haid which comprises subjecting the hair toan aqueous solution of a proteinaceous. material, a polyalkaline glycolcontaining at least 400 recurring groups in the molecule and an alkali,then subjecting the so treated hair to an aqueous solution of at leastone volatile alkaline material selected from the group consisting ofammonia and ammonium carbonate, heating the hair and thereafter rinsingthe hair with an acid rinse.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS NumberName Date 1,081,170 Brown Aug. 21, 1928 1,933,021 Maeder Oct. 31, 19332,154,924 Wilson Apr. 18, 1939 2,188,332 Carothers Jan. 30, 19402,207,241 Davis July 9, 1940 2,261,094 Speakman Oct. 28, 1941 2,305,356Luckenbach Dec. 15, 1942 2,309,722 Wilkes Feb. 2, 1943 2,383,990Quisling Sept. 4, 1945 2,437,965 Michaels Mar. 16, 1948 2,479,382 MaceAug. 16, 1949 2,531,359 Mace Nov. 21, 1950 FOREIGN PATENTS NumberCountry Date 17,990 Australia June 13, 1934

10. THE METHOD OF TREATIANG HAIR WHICH COMPRISES SUBJECTING THE SAME TOA LOTION COMPRISING A PROTEINACEOUS MATERIAL AND A POLYALKALINE GLYCOLCONTAINING AT LEAST 400 RECURRING GROUPS IN THE MOLECULE IN AN AQUEOUSALAKLINE MEDIUM CAPABLE OF SOFTENING HAIR AND DISRUPTING THE DISULFIDEBONDS OF THE CYSTINE THEREOF, HEATIANG THE HAIR AND THEREAFTER RINSINGTHE HAIR WITH AN ACID RINSE.